New YorkerestEssential reads from every New Yorker issue

August 25, 1980

The New Yorker cover for August 25, 1980

Featured Pick

u.s. journal

AN ATTEMPT TO COMPILE A SHORT HISTORY OF THE BUFFALO CHICKEN WING

Calvin Trillin

U.S. JOURNAL: BUFFALO, N.Y., about the custom, unique to Buffalo, of treating the chicken wing as a culinary specialty. The writer intended a short history…