The Homesick Restaurant Run by Cuban Refugees
From 1996: Susan Orlean on Centro Vasco, a restaurant in Miami founded by Cuban refugees, and one of the few businesses from the country that came to the U.S. virtually unchanged.
On layers of nostalgia: "There might have been no other place in the world so layered with different people's pinings—no other place where you could have had a Basque dinner in a restaurant from Havana in a Cuban neighborhood of a city in Florida in a dining room decorated with yodelling hikers and little deer."