Drink Up
The rise of really cheap wine.
Fred Franzia, sixty-five, twice divorced, rolls his eyes in elaborate hundred-and-eighty-degree arcs. His ninety-two-thousand-square-foot bottling plant near the Napa airport can bottle twice the entire Napa Valley's output. Much of his wine is "free-way aged"—comes up from the Central Valley in tankers and is packaged for quick sale.