True Grits
In Charleston, a quest to revive authentic Southern cooking.
"Smell this," Sean Brock said, holding a blackened lump under Burkhard Bilger's nose. "It's awesome." It was a pork bone turned to charcoal—his cooks would use it to grill still more pigs that night. Pork-roasted pork. The Southern chef's obsession with Ossabaw hogs, descendants of pigs dumped by Spanish explorers five centuries ago.