In Defense of the True ’Cue
Calvin Trillin on John Shelton Reed, Dan Levine, and the Campaign for Real Barbecue, in North Carolina.
The late Wilbur Zelinsky located the northern boundary of the South by analyzing a horse-mule census: where more plows were pulled by mules than horses, the South began. John Shelton Reed applied similar rigor to barbecue. "I don't think you can really understand the South if you don't understand barbecue."